North of Marigat Kenya
The journey north from Nakuru along the excellent B4 Hwy takes you through some dramatic changes of scenery, particularly around the equator, where the landscape turns dry and dusty, getting more forbidding the further north you go. Suddenly, out of the sea of reds, browns and meek greens, the blues of Lake Baringo appear in the distance.
Soon you'll start to descend and, as the roadside to the east drops away, you will see glimpses for the red plains and distant hills. At the bottom seats Radat, a tiny village known to produce Kenya's best asali( honey). They sell it from roadside kiosk by the vodka bottle (Ksh 100). If you blink and Miss Radat, do not worries because you will find sweet asali for sale throughout the region.
As you approach Marigat the spectacular ridges and escarpments of Tugen hills come into view, and you will see an extraordinary number of huge termites' nests towering up for the reddish plains.
Lake Bogoria National Reserve
In the later 1990s this reserves soda lake achieved fame as the new home of Lake Baringo with a migrant population of up to 2 million birds. In 2000 it was designated a Ramsar site, establishing it as a wetland of international importance. While lesser flamingo numbers have since dropped significantly, now that Lake Nakuru has recovered from earlier droughts, this reserve (telephone 0722 377 252; P.O.Box 64,Marigat, Adult Child Kshs 1500200) is still a fascinating place and a world away from any other Rift Valley Lake.
Backed by the bleak Siracho escarpment, Moss-green waves roll down Lake Bogorias rocky, barren shows, while nearby hot springs and geysers spew boiling fluids from the earth's inside- keep your distance! Amazingly, this inhospitable alien environment is a haven for bird life and at Kesubo swamp just north of the pack, more than 200 species have been recorded. One lucky soul spotted 96 species in one hour- a Kenyan record.
The lack of dense brush around Lake Bogoria also makes this one of the best places in Kenya to see the greater kudu. The more isolated wooded area at lake southern end is also home of leopards, klipspringers, gazelles, caracals and buffaloes. Oh, and you will see your fair share of donkeys and cattle too.
Mau Forest Evictions
In July 2005, Mwai Kibaki's Kenyan government forcefully evicted between 10000-50000 locals from their homes in Mau forest which seats west of Nakuru and south of Molo. Citing Kenya's dismal forests cover (a mere 1.7%), the government claimed the evictions were necessary to protect what is left of Kenya's fragile forest environment. The present government also believes that much of the land was illegally allocated by Moi's government during the run-up to the 2002 elections. Like Moi, most displaced families are sub-clans of the Kalenjin tribe.
The force used during the removals and the lack of options given to the evictees have sparked outrage with critics likening the situation to that of Zimbabwe. With future eviction scheduled for the forest around Mt. Kenya and Mt. Elgon, the political firestorm will only continue to heat up in the coming years.
While the odd Kenyan tourist visits the springs, few people venture further south, meaning you may well have the place to yourself. You now have the bonus of being able to explore on foot or bicycle, though stay clear of the small buffalo population. If you would like a guide (half full day Kshs 5001000), enquire at Loboi gate.
Robert is a tour expert in East Africa Kenya travel. He is a director of a Kenya tour operator company and degreed in tourism management. For more Blah on Kenya tourism see: http://www.landmarksafaris.com/planner/?refferer=ezinearticles
